In Salzburg, traditional costume is not a costume—it’s clothing with purpose and history. We explain the key garments, how to recognize authentic Salzburg traditional attire, what the bow on a dirndl really means, and where to find it in the city.
Traditional Costume at a Glance
- The three essentials: dirndl, lederhosen, and the Janker.
- The garment that gave it its name: the Salzburg suit, made from grey loden with green trim.
- Salzburg lederhosen can be recognised by their off-white embroidery, while the Pinzgau and Lungau styles are distinguished by their characteristic Tellernaht (decorative seam).
- The bow on a dirndl is a traditional relationship signal: tied on the left means single, on the right means in a relationship, and at the back traditionally indicates a widow or a waitress.
- Since the 1920s, traditional costume has also been considered appropriate evening attire at the Salzburg Festival.
Dirndl, Lederhosen and the Janker – The Three Essentials
In Salzburg, traditional costume is typically built around these three garments. While their style, cut, and details vary depending on the occasion and the region, the basic elements remain the same.
The Dirndl
A dirndl consists of four parts: a bodice, blouse, skirt, and apron. Everyday dirndls are typically made of cotton, with simple cuts and often featuring checked patterns or solid colours. Festive dirndls, on the other hand, are crafted from brocade, silk, or velvet and are paired with a silk apron. The length varies—midi length, falling below the knee to mid-calf, is the most versatile today, while ankle-length dirndls are considered more formal.
The Lederhose
Traditionally made from deerskin, or—more affordably and with a softer feel—from goatskin. There are three main styles: short (above the knee), knee-length (typically worn with Loferl socks and traditional shoes), and long. Authentic lederhosen are never machine washed. Their patina, signs of wear, and distinctive character are part of their charm and are considered marks of quality rather than imperfections.
The Janker and the Joppe
The Janker is the classic traditional Alpine jacket, usually made from loden or virgin wool, with a tailored fit and either a stand-up collar or lapels. The Joppe is a longer, looser version, often featuring embroidery and traditionally associated with rural folk costume. Both are commonly worn with lederhosen or a traditional Austrian suit.
How to Recognize Authentic Salzburg Traditional Costume
For those in the know, a single glance is enough. Three details reveal where a traditional costume comes from:
- Lederhosen embroidery: Traditional Salzburg lederhosen are distinguished by their off-white embroidery. Green embroidery, on the other hand, is characteristic of the Salzkammergut, particularly the Ausseerland region and its surroundings.
- Tellernaht: This semi-circular seam above the seat is a traditional feature of Pinzgau and Lungau lederhosen. Today, it is often regarded as a characteristic detail of Salzburg-style lederhosen in general.
- Knee sock colour: In the city of Salzburg, natural white and light blue are the traditional colours for knee socks worn with lederhosen. Forest green knee socks are the distinctive hallmark of the Salzkammergut region.
What many people don’t know: the knitted patterns on the calf insert of traditional socks (Stutzen)—such as “Brennende Liab” (“Burning Love”), “Steigerl”, and “Wegerl”—were once used as coded messages.
The Ausseer traditional costume from the Salzkammergut is the best-known neighbouring regional style: a pink skirt, green bodice, and purple silk apron. Distinctive in its own right yet closely related, it is also a familiar sight on the streets of Salzburg.
The Dirndl Bow – Left, Right, or Back?
The position of the apron bow on a dirndl is a traditional relationship code. While it’s not followed strictly everywhere, knowing its meaning can help avoid misunderstandings.
- Bow tied on the left: Single, unattached, and open to meeting someone new.
- Bow tied on the right: In a relationship, engaged, or married.
- Bow tied at the back: Traditionally a sign that the wearer is a widow. Today, however, it is more commonly worn by waitresses and hospitality staff, as tying the bow at the back keeps it out of the way while serving.
- Bow tied in the centre front: Traditionally worn by children, young girls, or those who prefer not to indicate their relationship status.
Our recommendation: Don’t take the bow code too literally. Today, the position of the bow is more a matter of tradition than a strict rule—but at weddings and in rural communities, older generations often still pay attention to it.
Traditional Costume at the Salzburg Festival and in Everyday Life
Wearing traditional costume to the Salzburg Festival has long been a Salzburg tradition. As early as 1933, Max Reinhardt featured traditional attire in his production of Faust, and audiences have embraced the custom since the 1920s. Especially for Jedermann in Cathedral Square (Domplatz), an elegant dirndl or a traditional suit—also with lederhosen—is a perfectly appropriate choice. What doesn’t fit the occasion are Oktoberfest-style dirndls with glitter and rhinestones.
Traditional costume is very much part of everyday life in Salzburg. The “Lederhosen Thursday” tradition has become especially popular among younger locals, and it’s not unusual to see dirndls worn at the office, in restaurants, or at the market. For more detailed…
For more information on the Salzburg Festival dress code, see Experiencing the Salzburg Festival – Tips for Your Visit.
Where to Buy Traditional Costume in Salzburg
Salzburg is home to around twenty traditional costume makers and retailers—ranging from long-established houses offering bespoke tailoring to contemporary labels that reinterpret classic designs. A curated selection of the shops featured in the SALZBURG GUIDE can be found on our Traditional Costume Overview page.
If you’re planning a custom-made dirndl, many people choose the fabric themselves. Salzburger Heimatwerk offers its own selection of traditional dirndl fabrics and, on request, also provides bespoke tailoring.
Our recommendation: If you’re buying your first traditional outfit, set aside a morning and take advantage of professional advice. A well-fitted piece of traditional costume can last for decades, while a poorly chosen one is likely to end up unworn in the wardrobe after just one season.
FAQs
How Much Does a Good Dirndl Cost in Salzburg? Everyday dirndls start at around €200, while festive styles made from silk or brocade typically range from €500 to €1,500. Bespoke dirndls with handcrafted details can cost considerably more.
Can I Wear Traditional Costume as a Tourist? Yes. In Salzburg, traditional costume is everyday clothing rather than a protected cultural practice. The important thing is to choose a well-made, authentic outfit—a costume-style dirndl can seem out of place, while a simple everyday dirndl is always an appropriate choice.
How Do I Properly Care for Lederhosen? Do not wash them. Remove dirt with a dry brush or a slightly damp cloth, and treat the leather regularly with a suitable leather care product. Marks and stains become part of the patina—they’re considered part of the character of authentic lederhosen.
What Is the Difference Between Salzburg and Salzkammergut Traditional Costume? The Salzkammergut is the region surrounding Bad Aussee, Bad Ischl, and the lakes of Upper Austria. Its traditional costume—with a pink skirt, green bodice, purple apron, and green knee socks—is a distinct regional style. Salzburg traditional costume is generally more understated and includes several regional variations, including those of Salzburg City, the Flachgau, Pinzgau, Lungau, and Pongau.
When Is It Common to Wear Traditional Costume in Salzburg? At weddings, festivals, and traditional events such as the Rupertikirtag or maypole-raising ceremonies(Maibaumaufstellen)—and, for many Salzburg locals, simply as part of everyday life.
